Frequently Asked Questions

Let's start with the number one most often asked question:

I have an old Craftsman table saw with a 3/4" arbor. Do you sell blades for that?
No one has made a saw with a 3/4" arbor for many years so blade manufacturers don't make blades that will fit it right off the shelf. If it's a 10" or smaller what you need to do is have a blade bored out from 5/8" to 3/4". We can have SystiMatic do that before shipping it to you for an additional $17.00 per blade (our cost), this way your warranty isn't affected. If you have it done in a machine shop or do it yourself the warranty is voided. (This should be done on a lathe, not a drill press.) If you're fortunate and the saw is a 12" all you need is a bushing to reduce from the standard 1" bore to 3/4" (SystiMatic part #35939).

If I need a blade bored how do I get that done?
On each page, just above the tables listing the blades, you'll find this: "Have a larger than standard arbor on your saw? Click here." If you click on that link it will take you to a page with a listing of different bore sizes. Choose the correct one (if it's listed) and click on the Buy button. If your needed size isn't listed choose "other" and reply to the order confirmation email you get, telling us what size bore you need. 

In either case, when you click the Buy button it takes you into the shopping cart. On the first page click "Add to Cart" and on the resulting page click "Continue Shopping". This will take you back to the home page and from there, go back to the blade page you were on to start with and select the blade you want and hit the Buy button.

How do I install a bushing in a saw blade?
Instructions with pictures can be found here.

If I put a bushing in a blade to use on one saw can I take it out to use the blade on my other saw or put it in another blade?
A bushing should not be installed more than once so if you take it out throw it away or use it as a washer. If you need a bushing in the blade again or in another blade you'll have to use a new one.

Can I use a different size blade on my saw?
In some limited cases yes, you can. On a table saw you can use a smaller blade and on a radial arm it will work, too, as long as you still have enough clearance between the carriage/motor and the table. However, it will not work well on a miter saw. And NEVER use a larger blade than your saw was designed to take.

Generally speaking, we recommend that you stick with the size your saw was designed to use or you throw off the geometry and the quality of cut suffers. The exception to this is a dado - see the next question.

I have a 10" table saw. Do I need to use a 10" dado on it?
No, you don't. In fact, it's rare that someone will need a 10" dado; the only time would be if you're cutting very thick stock and cutting a deep groove. In that case your dado is chewing a lot of wood and takes a lot of power, more than most non-commercial saws have. The larger dado is also heavier and creates more vibration. Rule of thumb: use a dado one size smaller than your table saw: 8" on a 10" saw, 10" on a 12" saw.

Can I use a dado on my radial arm saw?
Using a dado on a radial arm is generally not recommended. With all those teeth biting into the wood it will have a tendency to lift the work off the table and chew right through it. It's also not very safe. A possible exception would be if you're cutting grooves across something like 1x6's for shelving. Another thing to consider is the clearance issue: will the dado reach far enough below the motor housing? 

Can I use a dado on my portable table saw?
Probably not, at least not a stack dado set. The arbor shaft on a portable or benchtop saw usually isn't long enough to accommodate a dado set and most won't even take an adjustable dado. Another reason is a dado takes more power than most portable saws have and causes enough vibration the saw might become unstable. 

Does it matter what kind of blade I use or can I just buy the least expensive one on your site?
It matters a great deal! The most critical factor (after size, obviously) is the tooth geometry. You wouldn't want to try using a rip blade - which is the least expensive because it has the fewest teeth - on a radial arm because with its aggressive hook angle it wouldn't be safe and it would dig into the wood and stop the saw, possibly burning it out. You also don't want to cut aluminum with a blade with alternating top bevel teeth made for finish cuts in wood - the sharp points on the tips would be likely to snap off or cause the whole tip to fly off and across your shop like a bullet. Stick with a blade that's designed to do what you want it to do.

How do I know what a blade will do well and what it's not recommended for?
In the lower part of each page on this site is a table showing how you can expect the type of blade on that page to perform doing different types of work and also showing what it's NOT recommended for. This information was taken directly from the SystiMatic catalog. Please use it!